In the diamond trade, the cutting and proportioning of a diamond (referred to as "make") are of critical importance. The make of a diamond has an enormous influence on the beauty of the stone. Proper cutting and proportioning releases the dispersion or fire (intensity and diversity of the rainbow colors seen), brilliance (white light), and scintillation (sparkle) that's locked in the rough stone.

Cut is the least understood aspect of a diamond, and most people are unaware of the major differences between well-cut and poorly cut diamonds. This is largely because the vast majority of diamonds are cut to retain weight from the rough diamond, instead of being cut to release the maximum balance of fire, brilliance, and scintillation.

There are quality standards and criteria defining the cutting quality of round diamonds, similar to the standard grades for color and clarity. In 1919, a mathematician and diamond cutter named Marcel Tolkowsky created a formula for cutting round diamonds to yield maximum brilliance. His method became known as the "ideal cut."

Cutting diamonds to ideal standards requires expert skill, lots of time, and results in the most brilliant diamond available. However, cutting diamonds to ideal standards often means that more of the rough diamond is lost in the cutting process (much like the fat trimmed off a good steak or filet mignon). As a result, it is estimated that less than 1% of all diamonds are cut to the ideal standard.

As cost-cutting measures, diamonds are often purposely cut to a shallow depth, making them appear larger in diameter than a well-cut stone of the same weight. You get a "big look" from these so-called "spread stones" but the diamond appears lifeless. Other diamonds are cut too deep, resulting in a diamond that looks smaller than it should for its weight, as well as a stark loss of brilliance.

Some sellers mask these problem cuts by using special high intensity lights to make the diamond seem more lively than it really is. Therefore, you should always check to see how a diamond looks in natural light. The magic of a well cut diamond is its wonderful potential to release its dispersion, brilliance, and scintillation, even in poor light.

Poorly cut diamonds are worth up to 40% less than those cut to "ideal" or "superior" standards, due to the extreme deficiencies in brilliance.

The GIA scale runs all the way to Z, with increasing amounts of yellow/brown associated with each letter. The yellow body color seen in many diamonds is caused by the presence of nitrogen in the diamond's growth environment.

There are several other color grading systems in use, but the GIA is, by far, the most credible.

A subtle difference in color can make a big difference in price. That's why it's a good idea to ensure that your diamond is graded to GIA standards, by a GIA trained diamond grader, using GIA master diamonds. "Masters" are diamonds graded by GIA for color, and assembled as a set for the purposes of accurately comparing and grading diamond body color. Some sellers use cubic zirconia masters; however, these are not acceptable for diamond color grading because they are not diamond material, their color is unstable over time, and cannot be graded by GIA. The jeweler should be able to demonstrate color differences using his master diamonds. If they can't show you color differences, or if they rely on their suppliers for color grading, think twice before purchasing your diamond at that store.

Hight & Randall use only GIA master diamonds for grading diamond color.

A clarity grade is really a "flaw grade," or "purity grade," because the fewer and smaller the number of imperfections, the more beautiful the diamond will be (all other things being equal). Diamond clarity grading should be done by a GIA trained diamond grader, using 10x magnification.

It is important to note that some diamond graders use 10x eye loupes (hand-held magnifiers) to grade diamond clarity. However, in their Gem Trade Laboratories, GIA uses 10x binocular microscopes. Binocular scopes have overhead and darkfield lighting (a light source that illuminates the diamond from underneath) that allow the grader to see a diamond's clarity characteristics more clearly.

At Hight & Randall, all diamond grading is done using binocular magnification.

Again, there are many different grading systems in use, but the most universally accepted and respected, is the GIA scale.

GIA diamond clarity grades are broken down into the following eleven categories:

FL	Flawless. No visible flaws under 10X magnification.
IF	Internally Flawless. No internal flaws. Only minor external blemishes.
VVS1	Very, Very Slight Inclusions. Extremely difficult for a trained observer to detect.
VVS2	Very, Very Slight Inclusions. Very difficult for a trained observer to detect.
VS1	Very Slight Inclusions. Difficult for a trained diamond grader to detect.
VS2	Very Slight Inclusions. Somewhat easy for a trained diamond grader to detect.
SI1	Slightly Included. Easy for a trained diamond grader to see.
SI2	Slightly Included. Very easy to detect under 10X magnification Inclusions may be visible when the diamond is viewed face-down against a white background.
I1	Imperfect. Obvious flaws may be seen with naked eye.
I2	Imperfect. More flaws than I1. The diamond's beauty OR durability are affected.
I3	Imperfect. More flaws than I2. The diamond's beauty AND durability are affected.

You may hear about the clarity grade, "SI3." This grade was devised by some independent grading laboratories to describe diamonds between the SI2 and I1 grades in larger diamonds. GIA does not recognize this grade under any circumstances.

Most diamond buyers avoid the imperfect grades, especially I2 and I3, due to the fact that the stone's beauty and/or durability are drastically affected.

Hight & Randall will not sell diamonds graded as SI3 or I3.

However, people commonly associate carat weight with a certain size of diamond. They expect a "1-carat" diamond to look a certain way. To some extent this is true, but there are other factors that affect how big a diamond looks, notably cut.

Naturally, carat weight affects price however, in a "nonlinear" way. That is, a diamond twice as big will cost much more than twice as much. Larger diamonds are rarer and therefore command a higher price (and price per carat).

Fractions of a carat are often expressed as "points." There are 100 "points" to a carat. Therefore a 1/2 carat diamond might also be referred to as a 50 point stone.

About 25 years ago, high powered laser beams were first used to "burn-out" these impurities.

To reach the inclusion, a laser drill is used to create a tiny hole reaching deep inside the diamond. Often the laser's heat will vaporize the speck. If not, acid is poured into the hole, usually dissolving the spot or bleaching it to a less noticeable white color.

Naturally, this process is irreversible. And, since it has become an "industry-standard" procedure, it's not usually disclosed by diamond sellers.

The holes are so small in diameter, it's very difficult to see that the diamond has been drilled. Still, looking at the side of the stone in very bright light may show some thin "threads." Diamond grading reports will usually indicate that a stone has been laser drilled.

The Federal Trade Commission has recently revised the "Trade Practice Guides" for the jewelry industry, and surprisingly, has omitted laser drilling from its list of diamond treatments that should be disclosed to the public.

Normally, the FTC requires disclosure if the treatment: (1) is reversible (i.e. not permanent), (2) requires special care and handling (different from an untreated gem), and (3) substantially affects the diamond's value.

Laser drilling is permanent. However, drilled diamonds are less desirable and worth considerably less than undrilled ones of otherwise equal size and equal grade. Be sure to ask if the diamond you're buying has been laser drilled.

Hight & Randall, Personal Jeweler, will not sell laser drilled diamonds.

However, all other things being equal, a treated, clarity-enhanced diamond is worth much less than one that is naturally beautiful. There's nothing inherently wrong with gem enhancement, as long as you know what's been done to the stone, and you're not paying for one thing and receiving another.

This makes it important to know how to detect fracture filling.

Luckily, the "refractive index" of filler material is different from a diamond. It's close, but different enough so that you can detect its presence by rotating the diamond under a bright light. At certain angles, the filler will create a "flash effect."

It is important to note that, if a fracture filled diamond is submitted to extreme heat (such as that used with a jeweler's torch for ring sizing or prong repairs), the filling material may bleed out of the diamond, thus leaving the formerly masked inclusion visible. Two companies in the United States supply most of the fracture-filled diamonds sold. They are working to ensure that their products are not misrepresented to consumers, and both indicate that fracture filling may be redone if necessary.

However, there are reports of thousands of fracture-filled diamonds (especially small ones) being surreptitiously released into the jewelry distribution channel. You must be extra-vigilant when the true source of the diamond being shown to you is unknown.

Hight & Randall will never sell fracture filled diamonds.

Radiation treatments can be applied to off-colored diamonds, turning low-value brownish yellow stones into expensive fancy colored diamonds (pinks, greens, blues, etc.). This is not fraud as long as it is disclosed. However, this treatment is difficult to detect except by a gem lab, and often, the diamonds are misrepresented as natural.

Hight & Randall, Personal Jeweler, will never sell irradiated diamonds.

Some stores use fictitious discounts to make it appear that you're buying a diamond for less than its true value. They mark up the item, then use a "sale" theme to attract customers with a "discount." It is important for you to know that anyone in business must make a profit, in order to offer the services and products their customers expect, and to remain in business.

One myth that has existed for years is, "the markup on jewelry is high." Those offering constant "sales" and big markdowns are hoping the public still believes this fable.

The truth is, according to a recent industry accounting report, "The Cost of Doing Business Survey," the average jeweler's profit after expenses is less than 5%. Most jewelers want to offer good value at a competitive price, but real markdowns of 25% to 60% would not allow stores to stay in business.

Be wary of discounted prices. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Unless you are a diamond expert, you can never be certain about the identification or quality of a stone. That is why it's a good idea to buy your diamond from a reliable, recognized jewelry professional, such as a Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society (AGS), or a Graduate Gemologist of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). These credentials are your assurance that the jeweler has been properly trained. (The AGS is the only jewelry industry institution that confers titles upon and "certifies" its members. AGS also requires annual retesting and recertification of its members.)

(a) Concealing Flaws in Mounting.

(b) Misleading Information Regarding Diamond Reports

(c) Falsely Upgrading or Altering Grading Reports

(d) Exaggerated or Split Grading

(e) "Appraising" jewelry that the store sold